Out of lines in Berlin

I’ve been thinking about Berlin a lot lately. We just returned from the Urban Sketchers Symposium in Poznan, Poland (more about that in another post) but before that we spent 6 days in Berlin.

I had great plans to sketch all the famous monuments in the city: The Brandenburg Gate, the Berliner Dom, the Reichstag building and Norman Foster’s glass dome. But we were there during a heat wave and by the time I recovered from jet lag, it was way too hot to sit outside.

I suppose I could have pushed myself to go out very early in the morning to sketch, but I didn’t. I had very little motivation to sketch while I was there, and it was only days later, after we left the city, that I realized why. Besides the oppressive heat that made it impossible to breathe outdoors, I think I was rendered sketchless by the weight of history in that city. In the central section of Potsdamer Platz where we were staying, reminders are on every corner in the form of educational posters and plaques, in the remaining sections of the Berlin Wall, in museum panels, even in the cobblestones you are walking on. On one of our first days there we stopped to try the famous currywurst at an outdoor stall on a busy corner. I drew the most colourful thing I could find — the famous East German Trabant car at Trabiworld, and only later did I find out that from our outdoor seats, we had our backs to the former site of Gestapo and SS security headquarters.

As the days went on, I became more and more overwhelmed by the heat and the history. One day I sat at the edge of a park in Kreuzberg and barely managed to eke out a few monochrome sketches.

I think if I go back to Berlin, I will be more prepared next time. I will try to go when the weather is cooler, but I will also be more aware of how it’s not just what you are seeing that colours your view of a place. It’s also what you are feeling, and you have to pay attention to that too.


33 Comments on “Out of lines in Berlin”

  1. friedakam says:

    Dear Shari, I understand completely. I had the same hard feelings when I was in Berlin for the first time. Aldo because we went to some historical places like a Stasi building and a prison. Nog very uplifting! The sketch of the Trabant is lovely though.. I remember we were at one point in a region that was very hip. And that was fun. Maybe I will aslo go to Berlin a second time. Because it’s also filled with good art!

    • Frieda, what I did not mention is that we went to many fantastic art museums, and there were just as many that we did not see. In six days we just scratched the surface of what there is to see there.

  2. schartoart says:

    Let’s not forget how they cooperated with the Nazis to kill jews. They are trying to distance themselves now and say that it wasn’t them but the Nazis.

  3. Theresa says:

    I feel the same way when I visit Paris. Many buildings have plaquards reminding people of what happened there. Seems like in most of Europe memories of WW2 are just around the corner.

  4. Laura says:

    I live in the United States and I am reminded of that that time almost every day lately. I can’t say I am not afraid.

  5. Ginny says:

    I have family in nearby Potsdam and have been to Berlin several times. The monument that is most unforgettable for me is the monument to the murdered Jews of Europe. It is stark and striking and stays with me. I could not, and would not try, to sketch it.

    • Ginny, this was very close to where we were staying. We walked to it and through it on our first day. I have seen it many times in photos, but there are no photos that do justice to the feeling of isolation and imbalance you get when you walk through it. It must be experienced. I could not sketch it either.

  6. Lynn says:

    Well said Shari, “It’s also what you are feeling, and you have to pay attention to that too.” As an empath myself that feels everything to nth degree, I can corroborate that what you said is so very true!! We the people must never forget what happened there.

  7. Barbara Stumpf says:

    A very meaniful column, Shari. Thank you. I have never been to Berlin, but I have been to sites in France that are full of both painful memories and of brave resistance. Here in the United States, we are dealing with an administration that wants to erase history — or embrace a fantasy history — instead of taking an honest look at our past in order to become the best we can be in the future. I appreciate your reminding us that art emerges from the fullness of what it means to be human and deals with more than surface appearance.

  8. Ginie says:

    I appreciated you sharing your experiences Shari. I think travelling (or even just carefully observing our world) can be quite confronting if we let ourselves connect with what we’re seeing and feeling. And you reminded me that ‘sketching’ is not a mindless, surface practice, but one that encourages connection.

    • Ginie, that has always been so important to me. That connection to our surroundings and the people in these spaces is what makes urban sketching so interesting to me. Thanks for having a look and for writing.

  9. Rita Cleary says:

    Wow. I can only imagine.

  10. Marion says:

    The act of drawing is the act of story-telling.

  11. Denise says:

    A very insightful post, with honest feelings included. I’m glad that Poznan was a more enjoyable, and productive, experience.

  12. I totally get what you are saying. Your reaction means you care deeply about the history and the many people who perished. The creative well dries up under such stress. Hope you are feeling better. I really enjoy your art and blog. Thank you!

  13. Y.B. De Ridder says:

    Thanks for sharing. I cannot even come close to understand how it must feel to visit Berlin for you both and have to admit I find the city unsettling with all its horrible history, remains of ao the Wall, Gedächtniskirche but at the same time also beautiful museums, the Reichstag dome, nearby Potsdam etc

    • It’s such a rich and complex city. Of course we saw much more than this, we walked for many km per day exploring neighbourhoods, we visited many museums, etc. It was all fascinating.

  14. Judith Sopher says:

    As always, your use of color is amazing. As you know, everyone here has been affected by this heat wave which is finally breaking. I haven’t written for awhile. I lost my husband earlier this year and the previous year has been hard as well. But I am trying to draw and paint again. I never stopped following your travels and reading your blogs.

    \\

    • Judy, I am so sorry to hear this. I send you my condolences. I am sure it is so hard but glad to hear that life is going on for you. As we know, drawing and painting sometimes helps. Glad to hear from you.

  15. susie langley says:

    Sounds like a heady experience and you followed your true instincts. Thanks!
    Cool weather– and fall is coming! You sketches appreciated.

  16. -N- says:

    Such a mixed bag of emotions to visit Germany or Poland. Still, history is important as it does repeat itself, sadly in many of its worst ways, and we must remember as combating evil is important. That said, too much to see and draw! I do like the bright yellow – perfect expression of heat and antidote to gloom.

  17. mcammeehan says:

    It is important to take the time to absorb what you felt from that experience and thank you for sharing it with us. We cannot let history repeat itself. My father served in World War 1, my grandfather defended freedom in both World War 1 and 2, they both survived, they remind us and many others, that good will triumph over evil. The wounds heal, but the scars remain.


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